Coming down to earth after a whirlwind week. Back in YULand for a spell. Seeing my old friend M reminds of where I was four years ago today. Another memory back alley by way of travelogue…
12 May, 2003, Rome, Italy
Sitting in St. Peter’s. Just passed the tomb of Queen Christina (1702). Same one connected with Descartes?
Space is so vast. There are markers on the marbled floor illustrating the dimensions of other great cathedrals of the world. All of them dwarfed by this awesome structure.
Addendum Re: San Piedro. Ran into an Australian tourist who shared a few facts he overheard from a tourguide and friend. Statues at higher level are larger than those at eye-level to maintain scale and perspective. Bernini “cupola” in center actually eleven stories high! The statue of liberty can fit under the dome twice. To top it off, the lettering on the frontice is two meters high. Size and scale mind-boggling.
12 May, 2003, Rome, Italy
Sitting in front of the main altar in Basilica San Paolo. A very different (but no less stunning) place than St. Peter’s. Altar is set in half-dome whose roof is decorated in medieval style, replete with rich, drippy guilding. Entire cathedral roof is also guilded and features oval fresco portraits of past Popes just above column work. Above this are beautiful large stained glass windows. Elaborate columned (Corinthian?) archways run along the center of the church (I could be all technical and start saying stuff like transept, but I won’t…). A classical feel. Four rows of columns, two on each side, evoke the Greek agora.
Quadriportico at front of the church divided in four green squares, each with a large palm in the center. Square surrounded by massive columned arches. The sense of the classical permeates this place.
Beautiful little Spanish style square to the right of main structure. Gorgeous formal rose garden in arrangement similar to quadriportico. Framed by elaborately roofed archways riddled with old early Christian sarcophagi. A charming space. Just off this square is a small hall of relics, which apparently houses the chain that held St. Paul in addition to other odd macabre bits of bone and such.
Took the metro a few stops to E.U.R. Sitting across from the Quaddrato Della Concordia, which features a massive 7-8 story Fascist-era structure. It’s a simple, heavy square building which seems a modernist interpretation of classical style offset by a multitude of unornamented archways. Each of the four corners sports a huge sculpture of a man and horse, again in an almost Art Deco variation on classical themes. In simple, Latinate letters the inscription on the building reads: “un popolo di poeti di artisti di eroi di santi di pensatori di scienziati di navigatori di transmigratori.” Heavy. The space is the structural inversion of quaint and humble. Actually stark, massive and unsettling.
From Quadratto D. Concordia we walk over to the Basilica San Pietro E Paolo (a simple modern dome compared to the other majestic sights…) and then down onto Via Europa. Area is E.U.R. complex; wide tree-lined boulevards and modernist (late 1930s) housing architecture. Whole space is very different from the center of Rome. Like a spacious, futuristic planned city (that is beginning to decay and shows signs of age).
12 May, 2003, Rome, Italy
Remembering the afternoon; tried to visit the Protestant and atheist cemetery, which houses the graves of Gramsci, Shelley (who drowned sailing…) and Keats (who didn’t). Arrived late, but still ran into a strange sight; the cats of the piramide. Peeking through the gates into the ruins behind the pyramid I spy a couple dozen cats languishing in the late afternoon sun. It’s a visitable sight, but we were too late…Again. Will try tomorrow. The weather is an unending series of hot and sunny days. Unseasonably warm, I’m told. Obviously not complaining.
Today it was up and down St. Laurent, wandering aimlessly, and it wasn’t nearly as warm…